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            1. 國粹云

              京劇服裝的分類

              國粹云 http://www.sanxiayc.com 2019-01-06 23:02 出處:網絡 編輯:@國粹云
              京劇服裝的分類,京劇服飾分為五大類:蟒、帔、靠、褶、衣。蟒:一般指的都是帝王將相等貴族穿著的禮服。

              京劇服裝的分類


              京劇服裝的分類

              京劇服飾分為五大類:蟒、帔、靠、褶、衣。

              蟒:一般指的都是帝王將相等貴族穿著的禮服。

              京劇服裝的分類

              帔:帔是古代貴族家居場合所通用的常服。


              京劇服裝的分類

              京劇服裝的分類

              女團花帔:已婚之青年婦女用。圖案取布局平穩、紋樣嚴謹的團花,以襯托人物端莊的儀態。

              京劇服裝的分類

              男帔:中級官吏,豪宦鄉紳使用。一般用較沉著的色彩(紫紅、古銅、深藍、秋香等色)。多繡團壽字、團鶴等象征福壽延年的吉祥圖案。

              京劇服裝的分類

              對稱女花帔:此種花帔的紋樣布局呈左右對稱形態,具有莊重大方的特點。就其單獨紋樣來說,一般也采用均衡式,有主有次,主次分明,形象舒展,力求生動活潑,使圖案在整體對稱中又富于變化。女花帔中,多于青春少女,亦可用于端采用此種對稱式紋樣,其人物造型適應性較強,既可用莊少婦。


              京劇服裝的分類

              京劇服裝的分類

                   

              京劇服裝的分類


               均衡女花帔:用于出身官吏、鄉紳豪門的未婚女子(所謂“大家閨秀”)。繡以單獨紋樣——“枝子花”,構成骨法分均衡式、對稱式兩種,不受外輪廓限制,造型豐滿,外形完美。均衡式紋樣的花帔,是一種不對稱的自由布局:蘭草蝴蝶呈均衡形態,左右紋樣雖不對稱(甚至突破了帔身外形的限制),但份量卻相等。

              以紋樣的疏密有致、自由、靈活,襯托出青春少女天真、活潑的性格及追求自由幸福的優美形象。


              京劇服裝的分類

              靠:是古代戰士出征時穿的鎧甲它在穿著上后面背著四個靠旗在胸這塊兒有一個靠綢身體的靠身前后片是分開的。

              褶子:古代的一種便服。后常指傳統戲裝中的一種便服。也作穿蟒袍的襯衣。

              男角褶子大領大襟,有水袖,分花色、素色兩種。花色褶子以彩線繡成鳥獸花草等圖案;素色褶子以黑色、藍色者為多。女角褶子長僅及膝。青衣、宮女穿的小領小襟,老旦穿的則大領大襟。《水滸傳》第二十回:“﹝ 宋江 ﹞看罷,拽起褶子前襟,摸出招文袋。打開包兒時,劉唐取出金子放在桌上。”《儒林外史》第三十回:“當下戲子吃了飯,一個個裝扮起來,都是簇新的包頭,極新鮮的褶子。” 清·孔尚任《桃花扇·傳歌》:“浄扁巾、褶子,扮 蘇昆生 上。”

              大領的外衣。 清 以前為普通的便服, 清 代則為小孩便裝。《紅樓夢》第四九回:“里面短短的一件水紅妝緞狐肷褶子,腰里緊緊束著一條蝴蝶結子長穗五色宮絳,腳下也穿著鹿皮小靴。”

              京劇服裝的分類

              京劇服裝的分類

              衣:除了蟒、帔、靠、褶之外所有的服裝統稱為衣。

              長衣——開氅

              開氅就是用于高級武將權臣在非禮儀場合穿著的服裝。因為這種服裝氣派非常的大在戲曲當中一般都是主要演員穿著這樣的服裝。

              京劇服裝的分類

              京劇服裝的分類

              長衣——箭衣

              箭衣就是輕便的戎裝它適用范圍非常廣上至皇帝武將下至英雄豪杰衙役等都可以穿這樣的服裝。

              京劇服裝的分類

              團花箭衣

              京劇服裝的分類

              平金龍箭衣

              京劇服裝的分類

              素箭衣

              京劇服裝的分類

              短衣——花抱衣

              花抱衣又叫打衣它一般都是用于綠林好漢的人物穿著這樣的服裝。

              京劇服裝的分類

              罪衣

              京劇服裝的分類

              茶衣

              京劇服裝的分類

              京劇服裝的分類

              富貴衣

              京劇服裝的分類

              八卦衣

              京劇服裝的分類


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